Russian beetroot patties
This is one of my favourite recipes from my cookbook Salt and Time. Patties or kotlety are a go-to dish in most Russian households. Usually made from meat mince, they also exist as vegetarian alternatives, most popular being beetroot, cabbage and potato, and carrot. Often consumed in our family as an after-school snack, these patties are forever associated in my mind with a grocery store in Omsk, called ‘Ocean’. Essentially specialising in fish and seafood, as you have probably guessed from its name, the supermarket also sold my favourite vegetable patties. Conveniently, it was situated half way between my home and my school. The walk to school was particularly arduous each winter, on a dark windy morning with temperatures plunging below -20C. Passing through the back alley behind the shop, my mom and I would always get a waft of warm fishy air coming from its extractor fan. And each time that brief moment of warmth (despite the unpleasant smell) and a comforting flash-forward to our journey back from school with a bundle of vegetable patties, gave me strength for the second lapse of the ice cold walk. The version offered here is my improvisation on the popular beetroot flavour.
Serves 4
For the patties
2 large raw beetroots, peeled and grated
1/2 cup of fine semolina, and a few tbsp for coating
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 handfuls of walnuts, roughly chopped
2 handfuls of fresh dill, finely chopped
1 egg
2 pinches of salt
1 pinch of freshly ground toasted pepper
Sunflower oil for shallow frying
For the sauce
4 heaped tbsp of mayo
1-2 tbsp of fresh grated horseradish
2 tsp of white vine vinegar
Zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste
In a large bowl mix all the ingredients for the patties and add salt and pepper to taste. In my case it would be two generous pinches of salt and one pinch of freshly grounded toasted peppercorns.
Feel free to decide on the size of your patties: traditionally theses are made in a size of a medium burger patty, but I prefer to make them smaller and serve on a platter at a finger food buffet or as part of a sharing zakuski style dinner.
To make a smaller version you will need a heaped tbsp of the mixture, roll it in your hands into a ball and then flatten it slightly. Sprinkle each side with some semolina.
To shallow fry the patties you will need approximately 4-6 tbsp of oil, however, the exact amount, of course, depends on the size of your pan. Before adding the patties, ensure the oil is hot enough. You can always do a test by lowering a teaspoon of the mixture into the oil. You know it’s ready to go when the mixture starts sizzling straightaway.
Cook on each side for 3-5 minutes and lay out on a kitchen paper towels to absorb extra oil.
To make the sauce peel and grate 1/4 of a large horseradish root. The amount of horseradish depends on your personal pleasure-pain threshold. Mix the chosen amount with crème fraîche or mayo, vinegar, zest and juice of lemon, and season to taste. A pinch of salt and pepper will do, I believe.
Serve the patties on a platter with a small bowl of horseradish cream placed in the middle, or individually plated with some bread and a simple green salad.