My mama's fermented cucumbers
Fermented cucumbers are one of the most iconic foods in Slavic and Soviet cuisine. Prepared in a fragrant salt brine, these are not to be confused with Ashkenazi sugar-and-vinegar pickled gherkins. The abundance of aromatics and spices in the brine makes the crunchy cucumber a punchy chaser for a shot of vodka, but also a perfect wow ingredient in a salad or a soup, such as a classic Russian Rassolnik. I am quite excited to share this recipe belonging to my mum, as these fermented cucumbers are legendary amongst our friends and family. Don’t be alarmed by the colour of the brine, as it will probably resemble pond water and the pungent smell might take some getting used to. Admittedly, Eastern European ferments are an acquired taste, but if you serve these to some serious ferment connoisseurs, you are likely to get a round of applause.
Whether you are entirely new to fermentation or are an expert looking to learn new recipes, join my online fermentation class on Sat 1 May at 2.30pm UK time, where we will learn to make a whole bunch of fermented goods. You can find out more and book your place below. And if you would like to learn about just why fermented food is praised for its nutrient qualities, have a listed to my conversation with Nena Foster, fermentation & cookery teacher, on the MotherFood podcast!
RECIPE
MAKES A 2-LITRE JAR
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small bunch of celery leaves or blackcurrant leaves
8–10 small ridge cucumbers, topped and tailed
4 garlic cloves, peeled
1 small horseradish root,peeled and chopped into rough chunks
1 Scotch Bonnet chilli, sliced in half
small bunch of dill
small bunch fresh flat leaf parsley
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
1 tablespoon fine salt
1 litre distilled spring water
Method
Line the base of a sterilized 2-litre preserving jar (putting it through a dishwater will do the job) with some of the celery or blackcurrant leaves. Follow with a layer of the whole cucumbers, standing them upright and packing them in tightly, like good old sardines in a can. Next, add some garlic, chunks of horseradish root, a Scotch Bonnet half and half of the dill. Start building the next layer of cucumbers, making sure to leave 1cm empty at the top of the jar (you might have to trim them slightly to ensure they fit).
To prepare the brine, place the remaining Scotch Bonnet half, garlic and horseradish in a saucepan, add the aromatics (parsley, fennel, coriander and peppercorns), salt and distilled water. Bring to boiling point, then turn off the heat and let the mixture infuse as it cools down. Once the infusion has reached room temperature, pour it over the cucumbers, making sure all the chunky bits end up in the jar, too. Finish with a last layer of the remaining celery or blackcurrant leaves.
Make sure the cucumbers are fully submerged in brine. You can use a weight to keep them in place – a glass ramekin will do the trick. Close the jar tightly and leave to ferment out of direct sunlight at room temperature for 4–10 days (the speed of fermentation will depend on the temperature in the room). Open the jar daily to let the cucumbers ‘burp’ – you will see the little bubbles starting to rise from the bottom of the jar in about 24 hours.
You will know the cucumbers are ready when the brine starts to darken – hence my comparison to pond water – and they begin to emit a distinct kimchi- like smell. Once you are happy with the degree of fermentation, transfer the jar to the refrigerator. The cucumbers will keep in the cold for a few months, if only you would let them.
